Nothing I say will sound original. How many movies have we seen this in – an urban dood-type going to a village and enjoying the simple rustic pleasures of life? But it really did happen to me! Not that I am a dood-type; more an MGR-Nagar-type, but nevertheless, I had a wonderful time! I guess no matter how many movies we watch, and how many books we have read describing similar pleasures, one’s experience is truly one’s own.
Navya’s special report on Chennai’s water crisis required us to go to this little village in Tiruvallur district called Velliyur, which supplies to Chennai, its daily quota of some 15 million litres of MetroWater. Naturally, Navya being from the land of akki rotti, did not know where this place was. And the most rural place that I (her cameraperson – and she’s mine) have been to is probably Salem. So after just having found out that one takes a suburban train from Central Station to Tiruvallur (Madam Nithila also emphasized the fact that it would only take 20 minutes to get there by train), we set out, camera and tripod and bags in hand. The eventually 75 minute-long train journey was mostly spent giggling about the most banal of things, commenting on how demented our families were, wondering aloud if we were heading to Sri Lanka by mistake considering the time it was taking for us to get there, and also generally enquiring about the whereabouts of this place Velliyur to our co-passengers. Needless to say, no one had even heard of it. But since spirits were high and the weather delightful, neither of us complained. We laughed about it good-naturedly and silently prayed to our respective gods to help us.
We got off at Tiruvallur, beginning by looking around helplessly for someone who could help us. A sweet man obliged, and told us to get out of the station on the left side of the station and take an auto to Velliyur. No surprises, but very soon we discovered that the left side was not the right side. And an auto driver on the right side demanded 250 holy bucks to get to Velliyur. We shuddered and walked on towards a bus, whose sweet conductor told us that he could drop us off at the Tiruvallur bus stand from where one could take another bus to Velliyur. And we spent the next 15 minutes to the bus stand smiling at all that we guessed must be referred to as ‘town’ by the villagers – bustling streets, a rundown cinema hall, small shops that stocked English newspapers and big restaurants by the name Abinaya Bhavan and the like. We reached the bus stand and spent 10 minutes there – 5 minutes on buying safety pins to fix some essential things, buying kadalai and Cadbury Dairy Milk Shots, and another 5 minutes walking up to each bus to ask if it went to Velliyur until we finally got onto one.
It was a delightful red bus that sold pink Srinivasa Motors tickets. It was filled with people who mostly looked curiously at the equipment and my outlandish drawstring pyjamas and T shirt, and sometimes smiled at us reluctantly. All through the 17 kilometre ride, we looked out of the window with awe, at the lush green fields on both sides that somehow didn’t look as distant as they do from a train, the quaint churches, the austere Christian settlements, and people walking about like there was no hurry to do anything. We even caught sight of an old building that claimed to be a missionary-run daycare centre! When I asked, the lady next to me revealed with considerable pride that although Velliyur and its surrounding villages seemed like they were mostly Christian settlements, there were people belonging to all religions coexisting quite peacefully, that the people mainly practiced agriculture although the youth did commute to Madras everyday for work, and that no matter what work you do in Velliyur, whether you are a man or woman, you get paid Rs 100 a day. I am guessing now that Navya and I looked like a couple of fools, with those silly wide-eyed smiles that refused to leave our faces.
Even though there was no bus stand there, the kind bus conductor stopped right outside the MetroWater office. We hopped off after thanking him profusely, to the office, where a few friendly-looking men speaking Madras bashai stepped out. After hearing us out, they told us that they could show us the bore, explain the mechanism and show us the water yield at this Bore No 11 that happened to be a kilometer or two interior. And all that we had, were a few bicycles. I enthusiastically grabbed the happy green one with M Nandini written on it in Tamil, and Navya sat behind me with the equipment, as Mahendran, Ebenezer and Guru Devasahayam climbed onto their own wheels. As it always is with shaky starts, I shook the cycle a little, and Navya fell off. The camera bag landed on her legs, and the cycle soon followed as I managed to skip off and avoid a scratch. There was a great deal of embarrassed explaining and loud laughing as the camera bag was strapped to my back seat and Navya got on behind Ebenezer. We started to ride on this little cleared trail, towards Bore No 11. Bhaskaran, the supervisor caught us on the way, and immediately relieved poor Navya’s backside by planting her on the backseat of his motorbike.
It had started to rain in the meanwhile. What I felt then, is just indescribable. The mann vaasanai, unlike our Madras concrete vaasanai was unlike anything I had smelt before. It was otherworldly divine, and it threatened to intoxicate us. That little tongue at the back of my mind had already started to sing an Ilayaraja song in tandem with the rhythm of my steady pedaling. I was surrounded by tall green stalks of sugarcane, and there was nothing in sight for miles and miles except fresh greenery, until we reached a little clearing where we caught sight of dear old No 11. We got all that we wanted – shots of the bore and the pure water straight from under the ground that I swear we could have consumed for the rest of our lives straight from the pipe, and an interview with a nervous Mahendran with hilarious prompting and cuing from the others. We cycled back to the office, where a few more curious officers had gathered to catch sight of us peculiar city types. We waited in the shelter of the office, worrying aloud about missing the bus because we weren’t standing by the side of the road and flailing for it to stop, to which Ebenezer said, “Kavale Padadeenga ma. Naanga local boys, naanga sonna stop pannuvanga!” Which they did. The men helped us and the equipment on to the bus and waved cheerfully until we had all settled down in our seats. The rest of the bus ride was a low hum, with me promptly falling asleep, and Navya chattering nonstop on the phone with her parents.
After mini meals at Vasanta Bhavan near Tiruvallur bus stand, being attended to by the most attentive of waiters, we took an auto to the station, boarded the train and slept comfortably all the way. 21 took us to Simpsons bus stop, and we trudged slowly back to college, amazed at how un-tired we still were. All the way home from there I smiled.
I must admit at least at this point that I am a sentimental fool who romanticizes everything. But what might have been a long ordeal, dealt with fear and apprehension and cynicism, turned out to be an excursion, a real field day. I know Velliyur isn’t really the Kerala or the Sri Lanka straight out of my dreams. It must have its own problems, just like the real Kerala and Sri Lanka do, and all that I saw a mere speck in that universe. But that day reasserted my faith in simple living, the need for clean air and water and in the kindness of mankind. Being a fool is therapy, and fun.